A Paradise called Bandhavgarh
Reached Bandhavgarh at 1 pm on 27thMay..Checked into the Maharajas Royal resort,which I had booked after seeing the reference in Chirdeep Shettys trip report.It is a decent place with a huge campus.They have Cottages,Airconditioned suites and Non Ac Rooms.Their Ac suites are the best and cottages quite bad.Luckily I ha
d got the first Ac suite,which is very spacious and the best in that resort.
Planned to go for the evening safari,which in summers starts at 3.45 pm.
Safari-1.-Reached the gate at 3.30.There was not much rush compared to Bandhavgarh standards and there were hardly 20 gypsies waiting.I met a Japanese tourist who was coming to Bandhavgarh for the last 8 years.Saw his wonderful Tiger snaps which he was showing to all and sundry who bo
thered to see.I was really moved by his love for an Indian Forest.
As we entered the forest my heartbeat was increasing with the prospect of seeing tigers lying everywhere as seen in photographs.It took me sometime to realize that life is not all fantasy.But Animals were everywhere.Chitals, Sambhars and Peacock could be seen in plenty.One thing I noticed here was the visibility of animals compared to other forests is high.Could be due to the Very good protection offered by Project tiger coupled with the topography.
As we reached the Chakradhara meadows,we saw a few gypsies lined up.Came to know that B2 and the Chakradhara female were mating in the grass. But nothing was visible.We could hear growls coming from the nullah side,but as light was fading,my guide said it was no use waiting.I was thrilled to hav atleast heard the king.
We drove up for a few kms,saw the usual Chitals,Peacock,and a lot of birds.As it was first day with the slr,wasted a lot of time fumbling with various modes,and could hardly get many photographs.
Safari-2.-The morning safari in summers starts at 6.I was a bit better prepared now.As we reached the Chakradhara meadows,we could see the usual gypsy line up.The mating royalty had moved closer to the safari tracks,but was still in tall grass and invisible to us except a few who were enterprising enough to stand on their toes on the topmost rods of their vehicle with their necks craning in the grass.We waited,and after half an hour we could decipher some movement in the grass.Finally we could have a glimpse of the two.They stayed close to each other,enamoured by each other,and as there was no place on the tract to cross,as it was full of vehicles,they moved further inside.
We also moved on. .My guide took me to the Rajbehera meadows,which is home to a female with cubs There was no sign of them but.But near a small bridge I could see a few Red Headed vultures feeding
on a bird carcass.One was perched high on a tree.There was a long Billed vulture sitting next to a stream,and a lone jackal trying to approach the carcass.
These meadows are absolutely beautiful
.They are brimming with life.The thinly wooded areas abound in Red Jungle Fowl.I could see Grey Hornbills,Drongos,Yellow wattled Lapwings.Chitals,Sambhars and Peacock r also in plenty.One can really enjoy these creatures at close quarters here.
Safari-3-The evening safari,I decided to go to Badi Gufa area to see Bats.As we entered the gufa,the smell was nasuating.I could hardly bear the stench but the excitement to see the Bats made me lug on.I could see thousand of bats hangin
g upside down in the various gufas.Took some photographs and came out.
On the way back a forest guard took lift in our vehicle.On the way we reached the Gopalpur waterhole which is a very good place to observe Deer,Wild boars,Peacocks and other birds in the evening.
I started a conversation with the forest guard,who seemed to be a very wise fellow with a lot of experience.He asked me whether I was able to see Tigers,and I told him I had just heard the mating ones in Chakradhara.
He gave a very wise reply-RAJA hain,Khate hain,Sote hain,and Mating karte hain.Very wise,it made me ponder on the life of us commoners.My driver rather wicketedly commented to the guard-Apka bhi to yehi kam he.The guard blushed like a newlywed bride.
Safari-4- Two days gone and no proper Tiger sighting.The third day morning we reached the gate early,and were the first to enter the forest.Our route was different this time.It was through the Barua nala area.And as soon we reached the nala,we were in for a shock.The Bhitriwali tigress was sitting on the nulla bed hardly ten metres from us.I started clicking with a big relief on sighting the big cat at last.Early bird gets the worm is a true saying I believe.
Here I would like to mention,a parked gypsy with a clicking tourist acts like a very strong magnet in the forest.In no time we had around ten gypsies jostling for space.The tigress got wary,and vanished in the bamboo forest behind the nulla.I looked towards my guide and he said she would emerge on another road as she would go to Sita Gufa for water and rest.We parked our vehicle on the said intersection and patiently waited for her.After about an hour she showed up in the thickets.We started clicking.After some time she nervously crossed the road and vanished.But these few minutes of sighting was pure bliss for me.The maje
stic beast with a glistening coat and a kingly gait is no ordinary creature.
Rest of the safari passed with me listening to the boasting by my guide how he knew this lady would be definitely seen there,with me fully knowing he hardly had a role to play in it.It was sheer luck.
Safari-5-The evening I told my guide to take me anywhere.There was no tension now as I had sighted the king.Just after crossing the Chakradhara meadows I saw an eagle sitting on a dried up tree.It was a juv CSE,as I came to know later.
We kept on driving and reached a place where few gypsies were parked.I asked the most repeated question in a safari,dikha kya?
There are two types of people in the safari crowd parked at a place.The ones with an ear to ear smile and beaming face are the post Dikha ones.And the ones with anxious look and sweating face,staring alternatively between the dikha people and the patch of the forest,are the non Dikha ones.One can easily make out .I joined the second group.
After sometime two cubs became visible behind a rock.They were the cubs of the Jhurjhura female.We were delighted and the cubs nervous..The mother and the 3rd cub were not seen
.Probably, they were going to drink water in the dam,and poor kids were scared with all the commotion going on behind them.They kept on running,keeping themselves hidden in the bushes with the gypsies following them,till they vanished for good.
We waited near the dam for half an hour and they did not show up.We returned feeling happy after a long productive day.
Safari-6- This was my last safari ,so told my guide to take it easy.We parked ourselves in the Rajbehera meadows.The meadows are real theaters of nature.The morning sun was throwing its golden light on the golden grass.I could see Hornbills,Treepies,Drongos and so many other birds going about their daily routine.Chitals,Langurs,monkeys,Wild Boars carried on theirs on the ground.I thought I could spend countless hours here.
While returning,went to see the Brown Fish Owl,and got bitten by honeybees.Rushed back to the resort.
The pain was nothing compared to the pleasure this forest had given me.
Bandhavgarh is a Natures showcase,Wildlife at its best.A small paradise.
Reached Bandhavgarh at 1 pm on 27thMay..Checked into the Maharajas Royal resort,which I had booked after seeing the reference in Chirdeep Shettys trip report.It is a decent place with a huge campus.They have Cottages,Airconditioned suites and Non Ac Rooms.Their Ac suites are the best and cottages quite bad.Luckily I ha
d got the first Ac suite,which is very spacious and the best in that resort.Planned to go for the evening safari,which in summers starts at 3.45 pm.
Safari-1.-Reached the gate at 3.30.There was not much rush compared to Bandhavgarh standards and there were hardly 20 gypsies waiting.I met a Japanese tourist who was coming to Bandhavgarh for the last 8 years.Saw his wonderful Tiger snaps which he was showing to all and sundry who bo
thered to see.I was really moved by his love for an Indian Forest.As we entered the forest my heartbeat was increasing with the prospect of seeing tigers lying everywhere as seen in photographs.It took me sometime to realize that life is not all fantasy.But Animals were everywhere.Chitals, Sambhars and Peacock could be seen in plenty.One thing I noticed here was the visibility of animals compared to other forests is high.Could be due to the Very good protection offered by Project tiger coupled with the topography.
As we reached the Chakradhara meadows,we saw a few gypsies lined up.Came to know that B2 and the Chakradhara female were mating in the grass. But nothing was visible.We could hear growls coming from the nullah side,but as light was fading,my guide said it was no use waiting.I was thrilled to hav atleast heard the king.
We drove up for a few kms,saw the usual Chitals,Peacock,and a lot of birds.As it was first day with the slr,wasted a lot of time fumbling with various modes,and could hardly get many photographs.
Safari-2.-The morning safari in summers starts at 6.I was a bit better prepared now.As we reached the Chakradhara meadows,we could see the usual gypsy line up.The mating royalty had moved closer to the safari tracks,but was still in tall grass and invisible to us except a few who were enterprising enough to stand on their toes on the topmost rods of their vehicle with their necks craning in the grass.We waited,and after half an hour we could decipher some movement in the grass.Finally we could have a glimpse of the two.They stayed close to each other,enamoured by each other,and as there was no place on the tract to cross,as it was full of vehicles,they moved further inside.
We also moved on. .My guide took me to the Rajbehera meadows,which is home to a female with cubs There was no sign of them but.But near a small bridge I could see a few Red Headed vultures feeding
on a bird carcass.One was perched high on a tree.There was a long Billed vulture sitting next to a stream,and a lone jackal trying to approach the carcass.These meadows are absolutely beautiful
.They are brimming with life.The thinly wooded areas abound in Red Jungle Fowl.I could see Grey Hornbills,Drongos,Yellow wattled Lapwings.Chitals,Sambhars and Peacock r also in plenty.One can really enjoy these creatures at close quarters here.Safari-3-The evening safari,I decided to go to Badi Gufa area to see Bats.As we entered the gufa,the smell was nasuating.I could hardly bear the stench but the excitement to see the Bats made me lug on.I could see thousand of bats hangin
g upside down in the various gufas.Took some photographs and came out.On the way back a forest guard took lift in our vehicle.On the way we reached the Gopalpur waterhole which is a very good place to observe Deer,Wild boars,Peacocks and other birds in the evening.
I started a conversation with the forest guard,who seemed to be a very wise fellow with a lot of experience.He asked me whether I was able to see Tigers,and I told him I had just heard the mating ones in Chakradhara.
He gave a very wise reply-RAJA hain,Khate hain,Sote hain,and Mating karte hain.Very wise,it made me ponder on the life of us commoners.My driver rather wicketedly commented to the guard-Apka bhi to yehi kam he.The guard blushed like a newlywed bride.
Safari-4- Two days gone and no proper Tiger sighting.The third day morning we reached the gate early,and were the first to enter the forest.Our route was different this time.It was through the Barua nala area.And as soon we reached the nala,we were in for a shock.The Bhitriwali tigress was sitting on the nulla bed hardly ten metres from us.I started clicking with a big relief on sighting the big cat at last.Early bird gets the worm is a true saying I believe.
Here I would like to mention,a parked gypsy with a clicking tourist acts like a very strong magnet in the forest.In no time we had around ten gypsies jostling for space.The tigress got wary,and vanished in the bamboo forest behind the nulla.I looked towards my guide and he said she would emerge on another road as she would go to Sita Gufa for water and rest.We parked our vehicle on the said intersection and patiently waited for her.After about an hour she showed up in the thickets.We started clicking.After some time she nervously crossed the road and vanished.But these few minutes of sighting was pure bliss for me.The maje
stic beast with a glistening coat and a kingly gait is no ordinary creature.Rest of the safari passed with me listening to the boasting by my guide how he knew this lady would be definitely seen there,with me fully knowing he hardly had a role to play in it.It was sheer luck.
Safari-5-The evening I told my guide to take me anywhere.There was no tension now as I had sighted the king.Just after crossing the Chakradhara meadows I saw an eagle sitting on a dried up tree.It was a juv CSE,as I came to know later.
We kept on driving and reached a place where few gypsies were parked.I asked the most repeated question in a safari,dikha kya?
There are two types of people in the safari crowd parked at a place.The ones with an ear to ear smile and beaming face are the post Dikha ones.And the ones with anxious look and sweating face,staring alternatively between the dikha people and the patch of the forest,are the non Dikha ones.One can easily make out .I joined the second group.
After sometime two cubs became visible behind a rock.They were the cubs of the Jhurjhura female.We were delighted and the cubs nervous..The mother and the 3rd cub were not seen
.Probably, they were going to drink water in the dam,and poor kids were scared with all the commotion going on behind them.They kept on running,keeping themselves hidden in the bushes with the gypsies following them,till they vanished for good.We waited near the dam for half an hour and they did not show up.We returned feeling happy after a long productive day.
Safari-6- This was my last safari ,so told my guide to take it easy.We parked ourselves in the Rajbehera meadows.The meadows are real theaters of nature.The morning sun was throwing its golden light on the golden grass.I could see Hornbills,Treepies,Drongos and so many other birds going about their daily routine.Chitals,Langurs,monkeys,Wild Boars carried on theirs on the ground.I thought I could spend countless hours here.
While returning,went to see the Brown Fish Owl,and got bitten by honeybees.Rushed back to the resort.
The pain was nothing compared to the pleasure this forest had given me.
Bandhavgarh is a Natures showcase,Wildlife at its best.A small paradise.
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